What the pluck????

How Gordon Ramsay’s embattled empire came to include a down-at-the-heels Montreal chicken joint

by Anne Kingston on Tuesday, January 18, 2011 12:01pm - 3 Comments

The tweaking has begun: dark brown walls have been brightened with ivory paint; frozen fries have been replaced with fresh. The paper placemat menus will stay. “Gordon wants to keep it very casual,” she says. They’ll close for a few months to renovate in January, adding 135 spots upstairs and a bar downstairs. Nothing slick, says Couture: “Someplace comfortable to eat or have a conversation or even dine alone, more like you’re in Europe.” Closing time will be extended from 9:30 p.m. to 3 a.m. to draw the after-theatre crowd and chefs after work. “We’ll have to hire younger staff,” says Couture. There’s already talk of expansion, though not in Quebec, where St-Hubert BBQ dominates the market. “But other provinces are a possibility,” she says. “Other countries, too.”

Lavy alludes to the venture dovetailing with a new “Gordon Ramsay lifestyle” launch next year to include a food line and in-store shops in the Bay and Kmart and Sears in the U.S. He’s loath to discuss the details of the partnership: “That’s private,” he says.

Ramsay was unavailable for an interview, which isn’t surprising. His media access tends to be limited to promotional appearances. Even then, journalists routinely sign waivers promising not to ask financial or personal questions. As for how much time the great chef will spend at his latest namesake, even Couture is uncertain. “But for sure he’ll be a presence,” she says. But of course he will, even when he’s not there: his name is on the building.

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  • Joe445

    Actually, this move should not be surprise for anyone with a background in business. Although his forte is fine dining, Ramsay lost millions during the economic downturn. It makes perfect sense for him to hedge his bet by investing in a mid-level family restaurant, which is far more likely to stay solvent in a bad economy. Would Ramsay be more pure and genuine in the foodie universe if he proudly rode his business into bankruptcy?

    Food writers need to emerge from their bubble from time to time and take a look at the real world.

  • Jack Aubrey

    "The 27-year-old has lived in the neighbourhood for decades"

    …Well, 2.7 decades at most.

  • Vatro

    "…wherein a talented chef stops cooking and starts shilling, thereby diluting his identity…" I wasn't aware that was different than what he was already doing. Also, it would merely inform his identity, it wouldn't dilute it.

    Second: What difference does it make if a restaurant is a high flown affair or just casual as long as the food is good and for Ramsey, that the restaurant is efficient? Which I believe are Ramsey's goals in most cases. I don't see why this would be a surprising move at all.

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